We'll always have San Miguel de Allende, Mexico
Fri/Jan/2009 02:13 PM Filed in: Work
As the nation shivers under a blanket of cold, many people are packing their bags and heading south, hoping to soak up some rays in Florida or the Caribbean. Others, particularly those decimated by free-falling stock prices and 401k’s, may feel a vacation is out of the question this year. For them, we have a suggestion: San Miguel de Allende, Mexico.
San Miguel, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is famous for its mild climate, colonial architecture and cobblestone streets. It's four hours south of Mexico City and 1-l/2 hours from Leon Airport, which is served by American, Continental and Aeromexico Airlines. Located in the state of Guanajuato, in central Mexico, the town has an elevation of 7,000 feet and sits on a flat plain ringed by mountains.
In addition to boasting warm, sunny days and cool nights, San Miguel benefits from a large population of American and Canadian expatriates. They make up a veritable army of volunteers, who support local charities by organizing a full schedule of daily activities ranging from concerts, lectures ,and house/town tours to yoga, pilates, life drawing, and meditation classes.
The town has a wide range of accommodations, ranging from b&bs costing less than $50 a night to 5-star hotels in the high $200s. For longer stays, rentals such as a two- bedroom, two-bath apartment with courtyard can run as low as $1,500 a month.
Foodies, too, have an array of choices, at prices well below those in the US. Here are some suggestions: On a clear night, book a table on the rooftop patio of La Posadita restaurant (heaters are stationed nearby to remove the chill) and sample the enchiladas verdes with a glass of red wine, while enjoying an unparalleled view of the soaring towers of San Miguel’s most famous landmark, the 17th century Parroquia church. The total cost? 140 pesos, or roughly $10. The exchange rate is about 14 pesos to the dollar, but most restaurants require payment in pesos.
Looking for a great dinner and a chance to tango or watch others tango? Head to La Fragua, down the street from La Posadita, and get there by 8 p.m., when the dancers start to fill the floor. The food – skirt steak with guacamole and poblano peppers is one specialty – is delicious and the dancing continues non-stop until the wee hours.
A place highly touted for Italian food and an outstanding combo of acoustic guitar, violin, bass, and bongo drums is Bella Italia. Some say the food is overrated, but the combo, often accompanied by Johnny Carson sidekick Doc Severinson, is spectacular. Dinner, tip and cover charge run about $23.
For mouth-watering pastries, cappuccino, or out-of-this-world hot chocolate, try Petit Four, down the street from Bellas Artes, an 18th century convent that now houses a prestigious art school and a lovely courtyard with a café and fountains. Another famous art school and exhibition space is the Institute Allende, which was founded in 1950 and became popular when World War II veterans found that their GI Bill benefits went farther in Mexico than in the U.S. The Instituto also has a beautiful interior courtyard with café.
For sketching or people watching, go the Jardin, which we consider the hot spot of San Miguel. Located across the street from the Parroquia, it's the main square of the town and attracts everyone - expats who come to buy a cup of coffee and a morning paper, violinists and mariachis who stand around and play for pay, families who arrive on Sundays after church and spend the day there, and couples who dance to bands playing in the central gazebo. The action continues well into the night, as vendors sell hot corn with cream cheese and chile to an endless stream of hungry customers.
While San Miguel is not for everyone -- the New York Times recently described it as “Berkeley for retired people” - it's safe, the people are friendly, and it offers a diversity of cultural activities, all within walking distance. A few miles and maybe a 40-peso taxi ride away, outdoor enthusiasts can enjoy hiking and horseback riding, golf, swimming, and soaking in world-famous hot springs.
For our money, the highlight of a vacation in San Miguel is the opportunity to interact with the Mexican people in a setting little changed since its founding nearly 500 years ago. Just remember to bring a fleece (or one of our Toasty clothing items!), for the evenings can get cool.
San Miguel, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is famous for its mild climate, colonial architecture and cobblestone streets. It's four hours south of Mexico City and 1-l/2 hours from Leon Airport, which is served by American, Continental and Aeromexico Airlines. Located in the state of Guanajuato, in central Mexico, the town has an elevation of 7,000 feet and sits on a flat plain ringed by mountains.
In addition to boasting warm, sunny days and cool nights, San Miguel benefits from a large population of American and Canadian expatriates. They make up a veritable army of volunteers, who support local charities by organizing a full schedule of daily activities ranging from concerts, lectures ,and house/town tours to yoga, pilates, life drawing, and meditation classes.
The town has a wide range of accommodations, ranging from b&bs costing less than $50 a night to 5-star hotels in the high $200s. For longer stays, rentals such as a two- bedroom, two-bath apartment with courtyard can run as low as $1,500 a month.
Foodies, too, have an array of choices, at prices well below those in the US. Here are some suggestions: On a clear night, book a table on the rooftop patio of La Posadita restaurant (heaters are stationed nearby to remove the chill) and sample the enchiladas verdes with a glass of red wine, while enjoying an unparalleled view of the soaring towers of San Miguel’s most famous landmark, the 17th century Parroquia church. The total cost? 140 pesos, or roughly $10. The exchange rate is about 14 pesos to the dollar, but most restaurants require payment in pesos.
Looking for a great dinner and a chance to tango or watch others tango? Head to La Fragua, down the street from La Posadita, and get there by 8 p.m., when the dancers start to fill the floor. The food – skirt steak with guacamole and poblano peppers is one specialty – is delicious and the dancing continues non-stop until the wee hours.
A place highly touted for Italian food and an outstanding combo of acoustic guitar, violin, bass, and bongo drums is Bella Italia. Some say the food is overrated, but the combo, often accompanied by Johnny Carson sidekick Doc Severinson, is spectacular. Dinner, tip and cover charge run about $23.
For mouth-watering pastries, cappuccino, or out-of-this-world hot chocolate, try Petit Four, down the street from Bellas Artes, an 18th century convent that now houses a prestigious art school and a lovely courtyard with a café and fountains. Another famous art school and exhibition space is the Institute Allende, which was founded in 1950 and became popular when World War II veterans found that their GI Bill benefits went farther in Mexico than in the U.S. The Instituto also has a beautiful interior courtyard with café.
For sketching or people watching, go the Jardin, which we consider the hot spot of San Miguel. Located across the street from the Parroquia, it's the main square of the town and attracts everyone - expats who come to buy a cup of coffee and a morning paper, violinists and mariachis who stand around and play for pay, families who arrive on Sundays after church and spend the day there, and couples who dance to bands playing in the central gazebo. The action continues well into the night, as vendors sell hot corn with cream cheese and chile to an endless stream of hungry customers.
While San Miguel is not for everyone -- the New York Times recently described it as “Berkeley for retired people” - it's safe, the people are friendly, and it offers a diversity of cultural activities, all within walking distance. A few miles and maybe a 40-peso taxi ride away, outdoor enthusiasts can enjoy hiking and horseback riding, golf, swimming, and soaking in world-famous hot springs.
For our money, the highlight of a vacation in San Miguel is the opportunity to interact with the Mexican people in a setting little changed since its founding nearly 500 years ago. Just remember to bring a fleece (or one of our Toasty clothing items!), for the evenings can get cool.